When bobbins shone: the secret of lace with metallic thread

A heart of silk beneath the metal

In its study of English embroidery materials from the Tudor and Stuart periods, the Metropolitan Museum explains the construction of the thread called filetA metal strip was wound around a silk core. It's best to imagine a very fine ribbon embracing another thread, not a strand of solid gold. The museum distinguishes this material from the wires and metal strips used separately. Although the study focuses on embroidery, it also addresses embellishments related to metallic lace. You can consult the Metropolitan Museum's explanation..

This method of constructing the thread helps us understand something that, at first glance, seems contradictory: metal and fabric could be part of the same strand. You don't need to master complicated vocabulary to appreciate this discovery. Simply recall the image of two materials working together, each playing its part.

When lace was also weighed

The RISD Museum recounts a fascinating tidbit: due to their gold and silver content, certain metal laces were sold by weight. Therefore, behind a lace piece there was more than just length, design, and hours of work. The precious metal was also factored into the price. Their exhibition Luminous Lace, held in 2017, explores that fascination with dressing with light. The RISD Museum presentation preserves this history.

Furthermore, not everything depended on the hands of the lacemaker. The museum describes specialists who prepared the fine metal strips and others who wound them around textile threads. Even the final appearance could change depending on the color of the core, the width of the strip, and the way it was wrapped. Thinking about this collaboration invites us to view a simple thread as the result of various crafts, even before it reaches the bobbins.

Two pieces that offer a glimpse into that story

In the Metropolitan Museum's collection there is a collar called alarmIt dates from the early 17th century. Its description lists bobbin lace made with metallic thread, wire, and cotton. The museum considers it possibly French: that "possibly" matters, because not all antique pieces reach us with their complete history. The alarm card's information allows you to view the piece and its details..

Another example is preserved in the Smithsonian's National Museum of American History. It is an early 17th-century panel that combines embroidery and bobbin lace. The description identifies metal strips wound around a silk core and notes gold borders and, with a question mark, silver. It also distinguishes the work of the woven center from the lace borders. Here you can explore the Smithsonian panel.

These cards offer a fun way to visit a museum from home: first read the descriptions of the materials, and then find where each one appears in the image. You can do this together, comparing your impressions without having to get it right the first time. What would you look at first: the center, the outline, or the empty spaces?

A small proposal for our little world

If this story has piqued your interest, we suggest an observation game using modern materials you already have. Place a sample of ordinary thread and another with a metallic appearance near a window. Look at them against a light fabric and then against a dark one. Change your position and notice which details catch your eye. The goal isn't to reproduce an antique piece, but simply to enjoy looking.

Before choosing yarn for a new project, read its composition and the manufacturer's instructions: a gold finish alone doesn't tell you what it's made of. You can jot down your thoughts in your project notebook and discuss them with your group. Sometimes, a conversation about a material ends up giving us the idea for our next project.

And perhaps that's the best memory of this outing: lace doesn't just surprise us with its designs. It also surprises us with what its threads conceal. The next time you see a shimmering lace, you'll have a new question to ask: how is that tiny thread constructed?